Trying Army Painter's Speed Paint

I first saw this product on FB a few months ago. I guessing it is their answer to Citadel's Contrast Paints.  Speed Paint seems to be in between regular acrylic paint and washes. Being thicker than a wash the paint will tint a painting area, while at the same time being thin enough, it will gather into the recesses creating some shadows. The whole trick is to using the speed paint over a matte white primer or some other light color. It was even tried over a light metallic with some interesting positive results. 

 

When finally released it came as two choices, the Starter pack Comes with 10 paints in dropper bottles, which included a stainless steel mixing ball in the bottle. AP also includes a paint brush. They create their own names for their brushes, so there is no number but to me it looks like a slightly stubby No. 2 brush. But this is what you need. The Speed Paint needs to go on fairly thick.

 

Alternatively you can get the Mega-pack which contains 23 paints (plus Speed Paint Medium). This set gives you a few choices of red, green, blue and brown, rather than just one choice with the starter set.  It also comes with the same No. 2 brush and mixing ball. I got the Mega set through Amazon, and that seller included a small container of AP foliage - lichen of 3 different colors.  All of this for $99. A bit more expensive than buying regular paint, but it's supposed to take care of 3 different paints - base coat, highlight and shadow.

 

 

Picking out my figure, I didn't want to waste the paint (or my time if things went bad) by painting a large figure. So a 32mm figure was the victim. 

 

I missed the first recommendation that the paints should go on a hard palette and not a wet palette. The reason is to keep the paint from soaking thru the paper into the sponge. But as I use parchment paper, and had no bleed thru. 

I wasn't really concerned with historical accuracy of the Viking. I just wanted to see how many colors I could use and what they looked like. 

 

I decided to put out one color at a time, and came up with my first Con: I was surprised how most all colors directly out of the bottle is VERY dark. It was hard to tell whether that puddle was brown blue or green. This is where the hard palette or a type with little wells pays off. 

 

All the colors did what they said they were going to do -kept the highlights bright while darkening the shadows. Any excess puddles can be reabsorbed with the paintbrush. If I put a paint down and didn't like the color, I flooded the area with water and wiped the still wet paint away. I dried the area and then put down the new color.

 

The 2nd Con occurred when I didn't allow the first coat to fully dry. It is in the how-to that the new coat will reactivate the first one and you will get a mess. You will see this on the front of my Viking. Each paint bottle has a triad shield on it. That's not a design but indicates how dark multiple layer will look.

 

You can really see how well the base/ highlight/shadows work on the wooden shield though. In the end, I got carried away and added a little silver here and there to the figure.Regular acrylic paint goes over a dried Speed Paint with no problem

 

 

I think this is a very good product; especially for the modelers who build armor, or aviation (any model with a figure) and don't really want to take the time to learn to paint figures. The only situation where this may not work out for someone is if the modeler is a real stickler for accuracy. The shad of blue you want may not be the shade of blue they have.  But if you think as long as it's close I'm good, then this is for you.  I'm guessing that if and when the line takes off, they will add more colors. But remember you can always add regular paint too.

 

Two thumbs up from me, and thanks for looking.

 

 

Making scales

In an answer to a post question on Planet Figure who was asking about scales for a helmet, I purchased a set of these tools that assist in making scales. I only have three of the set listed with their results in clay, but the set goes from 1 thru 5mm.

An Idea for my Rocket Garden

One of the problems I've constantly had with my launch vehicle collection is that I would like to have them standing in launch position (rather than laying on their side). But with some of the models, and their very narrow features, the slightest bump would topple them over.

Ive been thinking about how to secure them vertically without having to create a launch platform for each and every one.

Another interest of mine is to build and paint miniatures. Looking at a recent purchase I took special note of the  the base that was included. It was a simple black disk with a lip on the bottom. It hit me that if I add clear upright rods to it, it may hold the rocket in place.

This time I just used the Tamiya Thin glue to attach the posts to the base. In the future I may drill into the base and then add some epoxy on the bottom for extra strength and weight.

This is what the result was -

 It's not going to win any Invention of the Year awards, and there may be something like it already out there - but it serves my purpose. Plus I can vary the  posts to the different diameter rockets I have.

I bought a bunch from GreenStuff World. Tho in Spain, I've dealt with them before and wasn't worried about unreliable deliveries. Different sized bases can be gotten to match the  different diameter vehicles. They can also be had in thin MDF, as well as plastic.

Here's my New Ware Thor Burner II in the stand.  I hope it helps someone else. Thanks for looking.

The Last Jedi's Crystal Fox

Named Vulptex by the creators, this animal jumped right out at me while watching the movie. Then I saw a video on YouTube where one was created with clay. Thinking I could do that, I started out. 
Looking thru the various images, aside from fan art, there wasn't very much. I found one screen grab, and a few images of the robotic fox the SFX guys built. Oddly both animals looked different. I ened up using the one you see on the screen.

First thing I needed was the clay. I picked up FIMO Glitter White figuring this would look good as it'll mimic of the crystals from the planet. Next I had to get a skeleton diagram for the wire armature -

Epoxy was used on the head, chest and hips to attach the wires.

For thosae that haven't worked with polymer clay, the instructions says you shouldn't use on any more than 1/2" of clay without baking. So to keep from baking all the time, clay artists will use aluminum foil to bulk out the figure. So I used the foil to fill in the neck and abdomen areas. Then more clay was added over the foil -

If it was a regular fox, you could add some texture with one of the tools and you's be done. But being we have to add crystals, I textured the model, and then into the toaster oven for it's first bake.

while he was baking I was thinking about exactly how to add the crystals. First thing I thought of was to make them like teeth, bake them and then add them to the skin.  After two failed baking attempts  - both times they burned,  My thoughts were that the individual crystals were just too small and even using less temp that required and a shorter time, it burned. 
I decided to just add the clay crystals to the clay raw and then bake.
for this step I needed Sculpey's Liquid Bakable Clay. It looks like PVA glue and helps the new clay stick to the baked clay. I added another thin layer, and then started rolling and sticking in all the "crystals one by one. After 2 days of doing it on and off, I was done. 

Next I felt he needed some sort of base, So I applied some Vallejo snow effects to a piece of foam, and then pressed his feet into the snow around the base as if they were running all around.  Then according to the movie, there was a layer of red salt under the white top layer, so I painted the footprints a deep red. I also painted his eyes, nose and mouth with black and I was done. Thanks for looking. 

 

Little Joe II

After doing a number of figures, I figure it's time again for another nice rocket. This one is the 1:144 scale resin kit of Little Joe II by New Ware Models. A number of dealers sell New ware kits, but I've never had a problem buying directly from Tomas in the Czech Republic.

From a website: 

Little Joe II was an American rocket used from 1963–66 for five unmanned tests of the Apollo spacecraft launch escape system (LES), and to verify the performance of the command module parachute recovery system in abort mode. It was named after a similar design from  Project Mercury. Launched from Whit sands Missile Rangein New Mexico, it was the smallest of four launch rockets used in the Apollo Program.

This is another nice kit from New Ware. The main part is the rocket itself, with a number of parts for the engine part, fins, a fret of PE and two pages of decals.It may be hard to tell but there is quite a resin plug at the bottom of the rocket. See below for how I take care of it.

The building starts with 4 main engines and lots of smaller ones sitting on a piece of PE - 

Nearly all of New Ware's parts come with a big block of resin.  I used to use the regular ball type Dremel bits. But I found that it was quite easy to slip with those. Then I found this one that had the flat top. After sawing off the majority of the block, I can then go in with the flat top and grind out the extra material almost right to the part itself.  For a lot of my rockets where it's difficult to get it perfect flat across a one or two inch surface, this flat top will allow me to dig out the center, and I only need to be careful around a cm or so of material where the gluing edge will be. 

 The engines are on, as are the vanes - all quite easy. Below the rocket are the attitude adjustment jets. There was only 1 on each block that was intact. But because I only needed 4 I could canibalize the others to make up complete ones.

 I wasn't looking fwd to folding the tower struts, but this one went quite painlessly.

Here the tower is complete with the engines of the escape rocket applied. I did lose one to the carpet monster, but there were extras. All the pieces are primed and the call out for the attitude adjustment jets said they should be steel color, which is what I did.  Check back for the final assembly, painting and decaling. Thanks for looking.

3d Print Grow Lines - Getting rid of

While looking around You Tube for the subject in the title there were a number of coatings that could go on. All were rather thick and could hide small detail. 
Then I saw this one: https://youtu.be/rn4edNztaPU

Basically you spray the model with a rattle can that sticks to plastic and then immediatly spray a gloss clear coat. The videographer then put it under a fan to speed drying. 
In the vid he did admit that his grow lines were fairly thick and that to cover it some detail was lost, but under small printing, the detail remains. HTH. 

For full disclosure, I haven't tried it yet, but I have the perfect model to try it on soon.  Thanks for looking.

Mountain Giant's Base

Not liking the disk bases for minis I set out to make some sort of a vignette. Taking info from the name, the Mountain Giant should have some sort of mountains.

I dug into my collection of little bits of foam from shipping boxes I found the size I liked, and then cut more to fill in the space for the two hills I have planned.  Gluing them with Woodland Scenics Foam Glue, I put everything in place. I realized I needed a smaller rise to offset the hills so I tore pieces off some sheet cork I had and added them to the center. 

Once dry I got out some Dap Plastic Wood that I had  put away in a drawer to use as the groundwork. 

First I started out just using my hands, but this stuff is very sticky, and it's best to use some spatula shaped tools. It also help to keep the tools wet. 

From there things progressed very quickly. And you need to be quick. The Plastic Wood dries pretty fast. It was already starting to firm up in  5 minutes.

As you see in the pics as the putty dries it gets lighter in color. Once dried, it's easily sanded. 
The Giant was moulded to be stepping off a boulder. To have come continuity I took some landscaping bark chips and made additional boulders. The bark chips make great rocks by painting them black and then subsequent lighter drybrusings of gray. I also painted the ground a dark brown.

From there is was just a matter of spreading some PVA glue around the base, and then with a static grass applicator, put the grass down. For realism, make sure to leave little bare spaces. It's the wilderness after all and not a lawn or golf course. ;) 
 In the pic the bare spot in the middle is where the Giant will be glued down. More glue and static grass around his feet will complete the base.

Review and Demo: Blue Stuff

I had this compound for quiet some time now and thought I already did a review until I went looking for it. 

It's carried by Green Stuff World (www.greenstuffworld.com )and comes in semi translucent blue bars. It feels like hot glue sticks. I didn't know how much I would need so I bought a few packs. It doesn't go bad, and can be used over and over.
The last time I checked, you can only get it from GreenStuff World in the UK. But shipping is really quick these days.  

Blue Stuff works by heating the material.  Boil some water then take the pot off the stove or out of the microwave, then put a stick into the water. The compound will be soft in 2 or 3 minutes. Carefully pull it from the very hot water and then start to knead it. From there you can impress something into it. The Blue Stuff cools very quickly and a mold is made.

For my application, 1/72 model kits are notoriously short of pilots. So once I found one, I put the Blue Stuff into very hot water, got it soft and then kneaded it into a pillow shape. I then pressed the pilot into the material trying to have it tight to the pilot's sides about 1/2 way up. 

Note registration pins

If I was making a one sided mold, that's all I would have to do. But because a pilot needs front and back I made registration holes along the edge. This will allow me, once the mold is complete, to line up both halves without problems. 
From there I heated another stick of Blue Stuff and repeated the process making sure, to the best I could, that  the Blue Stuff made contact with all parts of the figure. Now just let it cool.  
Unlike a regular silicone mold that you see for making resin parts, this does not need a mold release. I just made sure there was a lip on one side to help me separate the parts once cooled.

From there's it's time to make the pilot. I mixed up a little batch of Aves putty and pressed it into one part of the mold leaving enough raised to make contact with the 2nd half of the Blue Stuff. I put the 2nd half on making sure the registration pins lined up. Then gently pressed. You want to press hard enough for the clay or whatever to keep in contact with the mold halves, but not too much that you're bending the mold. 

Because it's very hard to "just put enough" clay or whatever into the mold, you *will* have some flash to carve off. I used a sharp Xacto blade. Be careful!

Giving the Aves time to dry I opened the mold and found the Aves still wet!  It turns out that I discovered (after talking to the Co.) that whatever is in Aves reacts to whatever is in the Blue Stuff.  You will need to use either Miliput or Greenstuff. I've used both with success.  As you see in the image the pilot is green, and turned out more or less ok for a first try. 

On subsequent tries I found for better detail on the front of the pilot to put him face down into the first half of the mold. This is the part you will see, and who cares if the back of him didn't cast well. Only you will know. ;) 

Another plus is that The Stuff is reusable, If you need only one part then just  reheat it, and push something else into it. I want to keep my WW2 pilot mold, and have actually made another for a modern jet pilot. So I'm good to go having my plane models "in the air" with out the empty cockpit look.

So try some out.  You know you could always use an extra ammo box, jerry can or life preserver.

Real Hair Application

I'm about to finish up my first mixed media model with El Fauno from Pan's Labyrinth - 

The kit I have, that I will soon post on, is bald. To make it more accurate, I have Tibetan Wool coming from Morezmore. Besides a cool doll making/sculpting blog, they also have a STORE with quite an amount of supplies for sale.
One of the how-to articles is How To Apply Real Hair.  I'm putting it here so I can easily find it again :) and well as share it.