Friday, July 20, 2018

Pans Labyrinth's El Fauno

This is a bust I found on Etsy, by Noemi Smith. I 'm guessing she kept #1 as there was an inscription on the bottom of mine with an autograph saying "#2 of 50." How cool. Anyway, her store there is Angels by Noemi.
It comes with just about an invisible seam line. It also has it's eyes glossed, so if you just wanted it to leave as is, you could. Is it a perfect likeness? No. But it is very close and the perfect size for my shelves.  

At first I decided to make this a dry brush only experiment-
 Then it went a little farther -
Then finally I said "Who am I kidding?" And added more detail - 

It was here that I discovered whey the bust looked off. It was bald!  In the film, El Fauno definitely had hair.
Hairy El Fauno
 So besides the obvious of leaving it alone and hope no one else notices, I had two choices. Get out the Aves and start sculpting or go WAY out of my comfort range, get some hair and start winging it. 
Here's where the model sat for a month or more until I got up the courage, and stopped at my fav "online sculpting place" MoreZmore, who has all sorts of supplies for sculpting, dolls and more. I bought some Tibetan wool. 
I watcher her video on how to do it, as well as a few others on YouTube

Then I got out my glue, hair and scissors and started in -


The glue I got, Fabri-Tac was the sore spot. You had one chance to get it where you wanted it to go, or if you touched it again it would stick to your fingers and not the model - I learned that a wet finger left the sticky hair where I put it.  The other thing was that on one or more of the video's, they say when you come to an end put it on from the opposite angle and this way you don't get an ugly seam line. This didn't work out for me. So what I did in the end was put a drop pf the glue on the model and just jabbed a bit of hair in at a 90° angle. This ended up looking ok for me. 

After that I got out the scissors and pretended I was a barber, and grabbed the hairspray to make it stay where I "styled it. ;)   
I was done. Is it terrific? No way. But I'm happy with it. Thanks for looking. 




Flash Gordon's Rocketship Finale

I was further along than I thought. Seems when I sat down for my latest session, all I had to do is glue the cockpit area the the rest of the fuselage.  They were butt jointed so I had to  match the center window with the center fin on the back. I was done. Thanks for looking. 


 

Wednesday, July 18, 2018

Flash Gordon's Rocketship

Another kit that was deep in the stash was Flash Gordon's ship.  It is produced by Fantastic Plastic and has been in and out of stock for years. As of this date it is currently on back order, but I suppose you can order one for when they come in. 
From FP's site: 
"Flash Gordon" starring Olympic swimming medal winner Buster Crabbe was the first cinematic treatment of Alex Raymond's intrepid space hero who debuted in comic form in 1934. Distributed by Universal Studios, the serial was filmed in 13 parts running a total of 245 minutes.

Shot on a budget of just $350,000 (Studio press releases inflated that figure to a more impressive $1 million), the production recycled numerous sets and props from earlier movies, including the "hero" rocket, which was originally the "Mars Wing" from the 1930 sci-fi musical comedy "Just Imagine."

Built by the brilliant Dr. Zarkov, the Flash Gordon rocket underwent numerous modifications between "Flash Gordon" (1934), "Flash Gordon's Trip to Mars" (1938) and "Flash Gordon Conquers the Universe" (1940). Most obvious among these was the addition side windows and a nose cannon between the second and third serials.

Rocket is based on the purported filming miniature that was offered on Ebay in 2013. Our kit features a full interior, doors that can be positioned opened or closed, and a clear vacuform canopy and windows. It comes in 26 pieces and has vac-u-form windows. 

As with many flying vehicles, we're starting with the cockpit area. Looking online, to see what it looked like, there's were plenty of views but too many were blocked by Flash or on of his "guys." 

There are a few differences namely the model has a backless seat while the one in the image clearly has one. Even though there is a large window in the ship, without a light, you really can't see in that well. So I just highlighted a few of the instruments and called that part done. While I was at it I detailed the back of the ships instrument console too - 

The the front instrument was installed onto the floor - 

After building those components I turned and painted the fuselage. Knowing I was going to paint the ship in a metallic, I started by priming everything in glass black, then a added V's silver.  There were some light scratches seen, and prolly should have thought to smooth over the raw resin. But I didn't - next time. 
I then slide the front deck into place - 





At the same time I installed the front windows.  The windows are a thin piece of acetate with the dimensions impressed in the plastic. It's just a matter of cutting them to size and installing. For the little side windows, where the tolerance was a bit tighter for the lip, I marked out the size on tape and then used that to create the lip to hold the window in place - 

Continuing on, I glue the front wheel fairings as well the the front "gun."  The wheels parts were all one piece so it was just a matter of being careful when painting the tires. My tire color is V's Black Gray with a little brown added. 
Turning my attention to the back part of the fuselage, I slid the rear deck int place, and then sealed the two parts together. Looking at the fins, which were also primed gloss black, I saw I was one short. How did I lose a big fin?? I had no idea but instead of coming to a screeching halt, I took one and created another out of some sheet styrene I had lying around. 

while looking for a piece, I came across a part that is supposed to represent the power source (I forget what FP called it) on the desk. I knew one one would ever know. But I would and it bothered me. So I twisted the back part open and installed the power unit. In a not too successful attempt to show it bloing I painted the unit silver, then added blue to the recesses, and then some white to make the highlights. I felt better - 
You can also see that one side of the stairs are also in place, closed. The other side will be open for the limited view in.

With that done,  I felt it was time to call it a day. Check back for the next episode. Thanks for looking.



 

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Cthulhu Showcase

This little kit was on the bench at the same time as the others I've recently finished. It irked me that all the while, I never had an idea of what I wanted to do with it. In the end I defaulted to trying some OSL.
It basically started out with turquoise and purple in the shade, but morphed into the lighter green as I applied the "light."  Thanks for looking.



 

Saturday, July 7, 2018

Another look at the Pitch Black Marauder

A request was put out on my thread in the Clubhouse for a certain angle. I took pics and posted them. But I guess to keep things even, I'll post them here too.
The request was to see the beast from an underside angle. Thanks.


Thursday, July 5, 2018

Nocturna Uther Pendragon

This time around I tackle a neat 54mm figure from Nocturna Models;  Uther Pendragon. Anyone who has seen the film Excalibur knows Uther. Uther Pendragon, also known as King Uther, is a legendary king of sub-Roman Britain and the father of King Arthur.
The kit comes in 6 parts of gray resin. Very little seam lines and I found only 1 bubble. 


The 'worst part of the model was the sword itself. It was perfectly sculpted and cast, but it was *way* too thin, and no matter what I did I couldn't get it straight. You can even see in the above pic, how the sword wants to curl.  The other parts are the tail piece of the sword, the sheath, Uther himself, a cape and the famous rock.  The scene is a depiction of Uther just about to drive Excalibur into the rock.
The first thing I did was cut off the sword from the hilt/hands and measured out the same size in a slightly thicker sheet of styrene. It gets painted gloss black primer as I plan to use V's Chrome on it  - 
 The paint job on the box shows him in all brown, so after priming him and then giving the skin a base coat of Beige Red, I gave him a coat of Agrax Earthshade to see what that did - 
From there it was just a matter of adding a base coat to all the colors. The chain mail started out gloss black with plans to use V's Gunmetal. But that ended up being too dark and settled on V's Duraluminum. The crown and the bracelets were painted in Bronze and the little gems were painted a red from the new Red Set - 


 Since it comes with the rock, I planned on a little vignette. I made 2 other stones out of foam, and then got different sizes of static grass. Since I sure the place wasn't mowed, after adding 2mm grass, I doubled it up and chose the longer grass (12mm).   Next was to add some height in the form of a tree. I got out my twigs and glue pieces together to make the tree - 
Next thing was to add the "leaves" which are actually "expired" herbs from the kitchen cabinet (you know you should toss the after 6 months...). I glued a few layers on and then painted the trunk black and a gray dry brush, and the leaves a dark green  - 
After that I used a lighter green to highlight the upper parts of the leaf pads. Some PVA glue into the hole I drilled in the base, stuck the tree in and I was done. Thanks for looking.



 

Tuesday, July 3, 2018

Real Hair Application

I'm about to finish up my first mixed media model with El Fauno from Pan's Labyrinth - 
The kit I have, that I will soon post on, is bald. To make it more accurate, I have Tibetan Wool coming from Morezmore. Besides a cool doll making/sculpting blog, they also have a STORE with quite an amount of supplies for sale.
One of the how-to articles is How To Apply Real Hair.  I'm putting it here so I can easily find it again :) and well as share it.